How to cover a bra for belly dance

Covering a Costume Bra with Fabric

PHOTO CREDIT: Above photo by John Rickman Photography, San Jose, California.

Ask the Costume Goddess

Ask the Costume Goddess:

by Dina Lydia

The Question

Dear Costume Goddess:

So how in the world does one go about covering a bra with fabric? I have created several gorgeous skirts and harem pants, but haven't got a clue how to make the matching tops! Where should the darts go, and all that mess?

Your instructions are an excellent! I especially love your drawings.

---Muddled In Mississippi

The Costume Goddess Responds

Dear Muddled,

A lingerie bra goes through some dramatic changes to transform it into a well-constructed costume piece. It must be covered with costume fabric, reinforced, and ornamented.

A ready-made velvet-covered or satin-covered bra such as those made by Victoria’s Secret is a suitable substitute for those who find the following instructions too much of a challenge, but it may still need reinforcement.

You will need:

About 3/8 to 1/2 of a yard (depending on size) of sturdy knit or woven costume fabric. (See Fabric Choices.)
1 1/2 to 3 yards of grosgrain ribbon in ½ and 1 widths
Skirt hooks and eyes
About 1/8 yard of heavy interfacing
Bra pads (if applicable)
Varying amounts of decorative trim

This method uses a two-piece cover for the bra cups, which is easier than attempting to cover cups using a single fabric piece.

Purchasing The Foundation Bra

Start with a well-fitting, well-made underwire bra. If you plan to add padding, you may start with a cup that is one size larger than you normally wear. If cups seem slightly too close together or too far apart, make a seam or extension in center front to correct the problem. The cups should be as sturdy as possible, to support the weight of any fringe or coins you add. If the cup seems too soft, it needs to be lined with a stiff bra cup such as those made for swimsuits, or interfaced on the inside. If your breast seems to ooze out of the bottom when you raise your arms, either the band is too loose or the center strip is sewn too high up between the cups. Adding a second lower center strip between the cups may fix this problem. If your breast bulges out of the top or sides, the cup is too small.

Add Bra Pads If Desired

Add bra pads, if you wish more fullness and have allowed for a slightly larger cup size. The pads are usually placed at outside or bottom half of bra for push-together or push-up effect. Pin to bra lining and adjust (they may be removed while you are covering bra). Do not overpad bra: this will cause it to stand away from the body.

Click on the image below to see it in more detail:

Replace Shoulder Straps

Replace elastic shoulder straps with grosgrain ribbon or a double layer of heavy woven interfacing. The ribbon or interfacing will be covered with costume fabric or decorative trim. Try on bra, with ribbon safety-pinned in place front and back. Make sure the straps are tight enough to be supportive. (A second set of straps, or wider straps, may have to be added if finished bra is particularly heavy with decoration, or bust larger than average. ) Mark attachment point on cup, midriff band, and strap with safety pins; add an inch to front of strap and an inch to back for underlap. Remove straps. Hand or machine sew a reinforcing 1” square of folded interfacing on backside of cup at attachment point, through all layers, to avoid future strap disasters. If converting to halter, mark center back of neck on straps; add an inch on each strap for overlap and a half-inch to turn under for extra strength.

Cover Shoulder Straps

Cover shoulder straps with costume fabric or matching trim, tucking under seam allowances neatly so no raw edge is visible underneath. Lining straps with felt will add comfort. If you are beading straps or attaching jewels, it’s convenient to do it before attaching straps.

Attach Straps

Sew straps to cups securely with heavy button thread, through all layers. If using halter straps, cut to proper length, and sew hooks to back neck. Leave straps unattached at back, until midriff band is completed.

Reinforce Midriff Band

If you prefer no stretch at all in your midriff band, like many large busted dancers, reinforce (or replace) entire band with ribbon at top and bottom edge. If you prefer a degree of stretch for comfort in the sides, reinforce band only across back for with ribbon to provide strength for closure and shoulder straps. Either way will make the strap tighter, so try on again and adjust fit. Leave two or more inches of overlap at center back.

Cover Back and Side Strap

Cover back and side strap. If you have opted for no stretch, use instructions below using straight instead of zigzag stitches, disregarding references to stretch. If you have opted for stretch in the sides, they can be covered several ways, as illustrated:

For a solid, covered strap, cut a piece of fabric the size of stretched strap, adding ½ inch all around to turn under. Pin fabric to strap, stretching elastic as you do. Seam allowance should be tucked under between outer surface and elastic, so no messy edge shows on the inside of bra. (That way, you need not line bra to cover raw edges.) Hand sew fabric to midriff strap with zigzag stitches, which expand and contract with elastic. (Straight stitches will prevent elastic from stretching and result in a too-tight fit.) The stitches should appear long and slanted on the inside of bra and small on outside. If sewn properly, the finished strap will appear slightly puckered on the side and will expand smoothly when worn.
For a double side strap, cut off original side strap, leaving elastic stubs. Replace lingerie elastic with ½” or ¾” non-roll elastic, stitching it securely to stubs of lingerie elastic or bra cup, and to reinforced ribbon at center back. Try on and adjust fit. It should be snug, but not stretched to the max. Cover these elastic straps with elastic trim such as stretch sequins, or use decorative ribbon or other trim sewn on in zigzag stitch as described above. Overlap the trim where the straps converge and continue across back.

Hooks and Eyes

Sew skirt hooks and eyes to back closure with heavy thread, after trying on again and adjusting fit. Do not leave flimsy lingerie hooks. Do not secure with safety pins!

Attach Straps to Band

Attach straps to midriff band with heavy thread, after adjusting fit once more.

Cover Bottom Half of Cups

Cover cups, starting with bottom half. Cut a generous oval bigger than bottom half of cup. Top edge of this piece should be slightly higher than apex of cup. Pin, folding and adjusting dart (or two darts, for large size cups) until piece fits smoothly over cup. Trim, leaving a ¼ ” seam allowance all around. Baste raw edge flat across top (this will be covered by upper piece). On the underwired edge, tuck under seam allowance (clipping, if necessary, to flatten it) and sew, using small stitches. Again, don’t leave a messy raw edge on underside of cup, unless you plan to line it.

Cover Top Half of Cups

Cover top half with a rectangular strip cut on bias (if using woven fabric) or stretchy grain (if using a knit) to allow some give.The seamline should be at apex of cup. Pin to fit, trim and tuck seam allowances under, and sew as above. If sewn properly, the cup should be smoothly covered with unobtrusive seams and nearly invisible stitches.

Cover Center of Bra

Cover center of bra with costume fabric, if it will be visible under ornament.

Decorate!

Your bra is now ready to be decorated.

--The Costume Goddess

Note from Shira

Note from Shira: although my usual web site policy is to not recommend specific vendors, I will sometimes do so for products that are very difficult to find. It's extremely difficult to find bras in the extra-large sizes that are suitable as a base for costume construction, so I've made an exception to that rule to bring you two web sites that The Costume Goddess found which sell them:

Lady Grace Online
The Bust Stop

Other articles on this web site related to making belly dance costume bras include:

Ask The Costume Goddess: Attaching A Coin Bra Cover. Now that you've covered your bra with fabric, you're ready to put a chain/coin covering over it. Here's how.
Ask The Costume Goddess: Bras For Dancers With Large Bustlines. Bra shopping tips for well-endowed dancers.
Ask the Costume Goddess: Soft-Cup Bras for Costumes? Can you use a soft-cup bra to make your costume?

Ask The Costume Goddess: Costume Fabric Choices. Tips on selecting fabrics that work well for belly dancing costumes.
Ask The Costume Goddess: Beads Connecting Bra. How can beaded strands be used to connect a bra to a collar?
The Costume Goddess Tells All: Cabaret Belt & Bra for Bellydancers. Review of book by Dina Lydia.

About the Costume Goddess

Dina has been sewing for more than twenty-five years (yes, she started as a toddler!)

She's also an artist (Maryland Institute of Art) and perfected her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering wedding gowns.

Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual figures.

She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics. She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand costume. She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title.

The Costume Goddess Tells All Costuming Books

Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The Belly Dance Book. For information on her series of books, The Costume Goddess Tells All, see her web site at www. costumegoddess.com. For reviews here on Shira.net of some of her books, see:

Volume 1: Flattering Costume for Bellydancers. Advice on designing a belly dance costume that will look flattering for your figure type.
Volume 2: Easy Costume for Bellydancers. Explains how to create easy-to-make costume items if you have very little sewing experience.
Volume 3: Cabaret Belt and Bra for Bellydancers. Detailed instructions for making your own bra/belt set. Emphasis on the beaded/sequined look, but some coin information too.
Volume 4: Arm Costume for Bellydancers. Creative ideas for sleeves, armbands, gauntlets, and drapes.
Volume 5: Tribal Toppings for Bellydancers. Cholis, vests, and other tops suitable for U. S. Tribal costuming.
Volume 6: Thrifty Chic for Bellydancers. Transforming thrift shop bargains into belly dance costume pieces.
Volume 7: Headpieces for Bellydancers. Many simple, inexpensive ideas for costuming from the neck up.

Costume Goddess Photos

To view a photo gallery featuring pictures of Dina, costumes she has designed, and her friends, either click on the choices below or visit her web site:

Part 1: Regular Costumes
Part 2: Novelty Costumes

Copyright Notice

All articles, images, forms, scripts, directories, and product reviews on this web site are the property of Shira unless a different author/artist is identified. Material from this web site may not be posted on any other web site unless permission is first obtained from Shira.

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How to Make a Belly Dance Bra Pt 1: Materials

by Mao on October 11, 2014 in DIY Belly Dance Costume Blog, Uncategorized • 0 Comments

Want to make a belly dance bra that fits you perfectly on a budget?

In this series of articles and videos, you can see how to make a belly dance bra that looks beautiful, fits you well and lasts a long time.

The Ultimate Guide will show you the following topics:

Part 1: Materials you need (this article)

Part 2: What to measure, how to cut a bra base, how to make side & shoulder straps

Part 3: How to cover your bra base with fabric

Part 4: How to decorate your belly dance bra

*This Ultimate Guide is pretty long, so if you want to download the PDF version of the entire 4-part series, you can! Download it for free from here.

So let’s get started!

How to pick the correct type of bra

First, you need a bra that serves as a base for your costume bra. You can use your own old bra or new, but the important thing is that the bra is firm. This is going to be a costume bra, so you want to make sure the bra is firm enough to hold its shape and most importantly, you feel safe and comfortable while you move around and dazzle your audience.

An appropriate bra base should have cups made from foam and keeps the shape without being help up.

If you are still not sure, try the smartphone test. If you can put your smartphone on the cups, and the cups don’t sink in, the bra passes the test!

What type of fabric to use for strap bases

Your bras are most likely made from stretch straps, but belly dance costume bras should have no stretchy parts. Some costume bras may have stretch straps, but it is this type of straps that scream underwear.

So we will make straps to replace these bra straps. To make straps, you will need interfacing. Interfacing is a type of material that is often used to give structure to clothing or hat or costumes. Your local fabric stores would probably have a section dedicated to interfacing. It comes in different thickness and fusible or non-fusible. I tend to use medium weight for bra straps and strengthen it with other materials for added texture and security.

Fusible one saves you time of sewing, as you can just use the heat of an iron for it to stick to other fabric. For bra making, I use fusible one, because it will be all covered, so I don’t worry about it coming off. But you can use sew-on interfacing by all means. When I didn’t know about the existence of fusible interfacing, I used sew-on all the time.

The other materials include felt. I don’t recommend using just felt, since fragile felt can stretch and rip. This should be used to add thickness when you use interfacing as a base.

Also, you can use canvas, denim, or even non-stretchy old cotton shirt. You can use anything that is non-stretchy and sturdy, and gives some thickness. If these fabrics have printed patterns on them, be careful because the patterns can show through even after they are covered with another layer of fabric.

For shoulder straps, I recommend grosgrain ribbons. Grosgrain ribbons are relatively thick and strong, and have horizontal stripes. It doesn’t matter if you use grosgrain ribbon or interfacing, because these will be covered with fabric later, but some interfacing can rip when it is cut thin, so be careful!

What type of fabric to use for bra covering

Based on my own experience, the easiest material to work with is stretch velvet! Velvet gives nice, rich colour and texture, and the fuzzy finish hides small imperfections. The stretch helps too, when it is time to cover the bra with the fabric. So I recommend stretch velvet as your first choice, if you are trying this for the first time.

Once you have tried velvet, you may want to venture out to other types of fabric. You can try satin – stretch or non-stretch – or metallic lycra is nice and shines nicely on the stage. The key thing here is to pick opaque material. If you want to use see-through material like chiffon, then you will need to somehow cover the bra base first with a different material or the bra and strap bases will show.

Tools and other materials you need

So other materials you will need to make a belly dance bra is pants hooks and eyes and snap buttons. I like to use a combination of pants hook and eyes and a set of snap buttons for belly dance bra, because just having one or the other is simply not secure enough. You can use small hooks and eyes like your ordinary bras, but professional costumes use pants hooks and eyes and not only are they sturdy, but they hide well too.

And of course, you need your sewing kit. That includes needles, matching colour threads, lots of pins, scissors, measuring tape, marking pens. If you are extra cautious with your bra hooks and buttons, use button & carpet thread for sewing these.

Alright, so now you are ready to get to work. If you find this article useful, please share it with your classmates, and check out the part 2 of this series for how to measure, cut the bra and make straps!

Oh, and before you go, did you know you can get all of the How to Make a Belly Dance Bra series in one PDF document?

Click here to get the PDF version of the entire Bra Making Ultimate Guide for free!

Making a belly dance costume with your own hands

Bodice

If a woman is going to make a belly dance costume with her own hands, the work can be started by preparing the bodice. For this, an ordinary opaque bra (preferably foam rubber) may be suitable. If it is already the right color, it will only need to be decorated. However, it is better to pre-sheathe it with the desired fabric so that it does not look ordinary. It will be impossible to create a single piece of skin, so it will consist of several parts. The first is a detail for cups. It is cut out in a rectangular shape and bent over the finished product. To do this, you will need to make several folds of fabric according to the principle of creating a tuck. You will also need fabric for the straps. To do this, cut out long rectangles that simply wrap these parts on all sides. The pieces are already sewn on the bra, you can even sew them on with a decorative stitch. "Ponytails" are hidden under the details for the cups of the bodice, which are sewn on last. We go further, creating individual details for a belly dance costume with our own hands. When the bra is completely wrapped in new fabric, you need to start decorating the product. Everything that the lady likes will come in handy here. It can be just beautiful embroidery with threads or beads, or it can be glued sequins in the form of fish scales, etc. Here the woman herself decides what she wants to get as a result. However, you need to remember that everything should be fairly securely attached, because in this costume you will have to dance, that is, actively move.

Step by step making beautiful oriental costumes for girls with our own hands

Bodice.
There are two easiest options for creating a bodice.

The first one is more suitable for very young girls. For tailoring the bodice, a children's top is taken. The color must match the color of future bloomers, or be flesh-colored. The top is sheathed with fabric (chiffon, satin) so that folds are formed at the bottom and on the side. Lay the folds with pins, then attach the fabric on a typewriter. The straps of the top and the resulting bodice are densely decorated with beads, coins, beads, glass beads, strings of pearls. You can cut a strip of fabric 1 cm wider than the top strap, sew decorations on it, and sew the strap itself to the top over the one that was before.

The second option is suitable for girls aged 10 and over. For tailoring, a bra or swimsuit is used a couple of sizes larger. This is necessary in order for the size to fit, since after decoration and sheathing, the size of the cup decreases. The base is wrapped in a fabric of the corresponding color.

The shoulder straps are cut off, facing fabric is applied to the bodice and pinned with pins. The fabric should be pulled very tight.

Both cups are covered separately, then on the chest the fabric is connected with a neat blind seam (hand basted or sewn on a machine).

For the side bands of the bodice, the fabric should be with a margin so that it is enough to form the ties.

The finished sheathed bodice is decorated with sequins, beads, or any decor that suits the style.
Bloomers.
Harem pants require a lot of fabric. To calculate the correct footage, the length of the leg is measured from the sacrum to the ankle. Width plays a secondary role - the more fabric - the airier and lighter the bloomers.

The photo shows how to cut out bloomers. To do this, the fabric is folded in half, with the front part inward. On the side where the fold of the fabric is, a semicircle is cut out. You need two such blanks - on the left and right legs.

The fabric is unfolded and folded with the right part inside. A semicircle is sewn, parts A, B, C, D are sewn in pairs. Pants with unsewn side stitching are obtained. This line can be grabbed a couple of times, decorating the stitching points with hanging beads or sequins. The legs will look beautiful through the slots, and for belly dancing it is very beautiful.

Bloomers sit on an elastic band, the volume of which is the size of the hips. The elastic band is taken wide and very elastic, so that the folds that are laid when sweeping trousers with fabric fit beautifully on the buttocks.
Monisto and belt.
The monisto is a neck ornament that emits a characteristic tinkle when danced and harmonizes in color and style with the costume. Maybe from beads, beads, glass beads, coins.

Like the belt, you can make your own monisto. To do this, the selected decorations are sewn onto a crescent-shaped blank. When sewing, you should leave a large supply of thread and sew on decorations so that they hang freely. Beads and other accessories are sewn in layers, but at the same time a pattern can be formed from them.

Monistos can be made from factory-made coins - they are light and have holes for sewing on. You can go the other way and use small real coins. To do this, holes are punched in them and coins are sewn to the workpiece with a strong thread through them. Real coins are heavier, but they ring better when moved.

The belt is made of chiffon or organza. The color of the material can be any - to match the bodice, harem pants, individual accessories of the costume.

The simplest belt pattern is a rectangular strip of fabric on which decorations are sewn.

There are many ready-made belts for dancing, but if the costume is made by hand, then the belt should be made by yourself.
Head ornaments.
A beautiful decoration will be obtained if you use a large piece of organza, as on bloomers. It is fixed with a hair hoop decorated with beads and coins. You can sew a bandage. To do this, you need an elastic band, the length of which is equal to the girth of the head. Decorations are beautifully sewn on it, a pattern is formed from them. The finished elastic band is attached to the chiffon around the circumference so that the resulting design is firmly held on the head.

Sleeves.
For sewing armlets, measure the circumference of the arm above the elbow and the length of the arm from the elbow to the wrist. An allowance is made for width and seams. 1.5 cm is added to the seam, as much as necessary to the width.

A rectangle is cut out of the fabric and sewn along the vertical seam. You can not close the seam completely, but, like bloomers, grab it in several places, decorating it with decorative elements. Elastic bands equal to the girth of the wrist and forearm are sewn to the fabric. They are also decorated with accessories.

The larger the sleeves, the lighter the fabric should be.

Recommendations.

Starting to sew a costume, you should take into account that different fabrics behave differently in the dance. Organza, chiffon, silk are light and almost transparent fabrics, they are well suited for a suit. Satin is denser, it is good to use it for finishing the bodice or belt.

When forming a pattern, pay attention to how many folds there will be on trousers and sleeves. If a dense fabric is chosen, then too much fabric will prevent the suit from playing and swaying, but will look bulky and awkward.

When decorating a suit, use the same fittings and follow the same chosen style. It is not allowed to decorate the belt, head, bodice in different styles and themes. If different techniques are used, then the general concept should be traced throughout the costume.

Skirt

Tailoring of the belly dance costume includes making a long skirt. To do this, you need to take a fairly thin transparent fabric that drapes well, such as chiffon or crepe chiffon. Now you need to decide what kind of skirt you want to make. Two options can be considered. The first is an ordinary straight skirt with slits on the sides, the second is a sun skirt.

In any case, belly dance costume patterns must be prepared beforehand. So, for a straight skirt, you will need to take two pieces of fabric that will be sewn along the sides to about the end of the thigh. Unsewn sections and the bottom are simply hemmed. From above, you can provide the usual wide belt, which must be made of elastic fabric, because it will most likely be on the hips, and not on the waist. To do this, you need a piece of fabric twice as wide as the belt itself. The fabric for the belt is bent in width with the wrong side inward. Next, the belt is sewn to the skirt. To do this, first the inner part of the belt (which is adjacent to the body) is sewn with a skirt, then the fabric allowances are tucked in, covered with the front of the belt, and everything is overcast. If everything went out neatly, a decorative stitch is started along the front of the belt. Oriental belly dance costumes also suggest the possibility of creating a sun skirt. You can sew it in the same way as the previous one, but the fabric will take a little more, about 2.5 times. After all, the sun skirt is a circle with a cutout for the waist in the center. The top of the skirt, along the waistline, can be gathered. The bottom is hemmed with a narrow scar, a wide belt is sewn to the top. That's all, the skirt is ready.

How to sew a belly dance costume at home

Of course, nowadays you can buy a ready-made costume, but firstly, it is more expensive, and secondly, it is so nice to realize that you created such beauty with your own hands.

Contents:

Contents:

0093

how to sew a half-sun skirt

how to sew a straight skirt

how to sew a skirt with a frill

This is interesting: pieces of your belt costume. It should be hard enough, but not squeeze the stomach. Sewing a belt is also the most painstaking work that requires perseverance and imagination. You will need to make a base, embroider the belt with beads, glass beads, sequins, but what a beautiful result you get!

making the base and sewing the belt
how to “fit” the belt

The bodice and belt are the main part of the costume, which requires 80% of financial and labor costs. It is better to choose the color of the bra in the color of the suit, but you can take any and close it with embroidery material - sequins, beads, appliqués, braid. After sewing the bodice and belt, you can change skirts and you will have several options for your costume.

Making a belly dance bodice
Lif from the bra

Patterns and shawl models

There are several extensions and you can choose both the simplest, most convenient for you and the most beautiful

Different options for extensions and stitches

9000 9000 9000

Belly Dance

Book

This book is not just a textbook. A personal story told by the author with such taste and temperament convinces: for a woman who has managed to express herself in dance, there is nothing.

This book is not just a textbook. A personal story told by the author with such taste and temperament convinces: for a woman who has managed to express herself in dance, nothing is impossible.

Belly Dance - the most feminine dance of all time - will allow you to reveal your sexuality, to feel like a woman who has no equal. In the book "Belly Dance": Myths and realities of belly dance. Unique author's technique. Live dance training.

Sewing yourself? Easily!

Book

The book gives simple and clear advice to anyone who wants to learn how to sew on their own. Using the detailed recommendations of the authors, you can learn the rules of individual �.

The book gives simple and clear advice to anyone who wants to learn how to sew on their own. Using the detailed recommendations of the authors, you can learn the rules of individual modeling, cutting and sewing clothes of any complexity, choosing the most appropriate style and finish. For greater clarity, the text is accompanied by numerous illustrations, pattern drawings and options for fashionable clothing models.

Belt

When preparing a belly dance costume with your own hands, it is important not to forget about such a moment as the design of the belt. It is this detail that gives the costume a special appeal. How to make it? To do this, it is better to pre-prepare a full-size pattern. The top must be straight, and the bottom of the belt can be triangular, figured, rounded - whatever you like. The length of the product is calculated: this is the waist circumference plus approximately 4 cm for the fastener. You can make tucks so that the product sits perfectly on the figure.

The fabric is also selected: for the base of the belt - dense, cotton can be used, and for the top - something light and beautiful, for example, supplex, satin, crepe-satin. You will also need a dense interlining for gluing the product, it will be attached from the inside to the front of the product. When the parts are ready, they need to be folded with the right sides inward, sewn, turned inside out, through the hole left, baste and insert the fastener (the belt can simply be tied). Now it remains to decorate it in the same way as the bodice.

Accessories

What other details can oriental belly dance costumes suggest? Of course, these are special decorations. Earrings, bracelets for hands and ankles are definitely needed - the more the better, because when a woman dances, they ring pleasantly. By the way, they can also be made independently from beads or beads. It is necessary to decorate the neck with chains or coarse beads, and fingers with rings. However, it is important not to overdo it with decorations so that the figure is not too bulky. Of course, we must not forget about bright makeup, where the eyes should stand out especially.

Oriental Beauty carnival costume: ideas, photos

If you know how to sew well, then you just need to look at the thing and you will already understand how it can be created. Here are the ideas of the carnival costume Oriental beauty with a photo - choose, repeat and sew:

Oriental beauty cosplay costume Oriental beauty cosplay costume Oriental beauty cosplay costume Oriental beauty cosplay costume Oriental beauty cosplay costume » Carnival costume "Oriental beauty" Carnival costume "Oriental beauty"