How to measure for irish dance dress


Irish Dance Sizing - Earnest Threads

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Please note that size numbers are not based on age or fashion sizing. Please measure your dancer to find the best size for them.

Girls’ Dress Sizes

Designed for flat-chested figures without a developed or developing bust.

Size567810121416
Chest2324.52627.52930.53234
Waist2223.5252627.52930.532
Dropped Waist
(3-4 inches
below waist)
2627.52930.62532.2533.7535.2537.25
Back Nape
to Waist
1111.51212.513.251414.7515. 25
Across Chest Front
(sleeve seam
to seam)
9.6251010.2510.51111.62512.2513
Finished Front Length
from Hollow (center collar
bone) to Hem
20.2521.2522.12523.12524.525.752727.75
Ladies Dress Sizes

Designed for teen and adult figures with a developed or developing bust.

Size68101214161820
Chest3031.53334.536.538.540.542.5
Waist25.7527.2528.7530.2531.7533.7535.7537.75
Dropped Waist
(3-4 inches
below waist)
32.2533.7535.2536.7538. 7540.7542.7544.75
Back Nape
to Waist
15.751616.2516.516.751717.2517.5
Across Chest Front
(sleeve seam
to seam)
1212.51313.514.12514.7515.2515.75
Finished Front Length
from Hollow (center collar
bone) to Hem
27.62528.2528.87529.530.12530.7531.37532
Skirt Sizes
SizeABCDEFGHJKLM
Waist2021.52324.52627.52930.532343638
Hip23.525.527.53032. 53537.539.54143.754648.25
Finished Front
Length of Skirt
10.511.512.513.514.51515.51616.51717.518

Need to know your measurements cuz you're searching the solo dress classifieds? Buying a new dress? YOU'VE COME TO THE RIGHT PLACE!

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Ever been searching through classifieds for used solo dresses and become totally frustrated because you didn't know any of the measurements they were giving you? Wonder no more! This page is designed to help you gather all the necessary measurements for ordering a new dress or for finding the perfect fit in a used one!


Essential measurements for the purchaser of a new/used dress


the following has been provided by DressXpress:


Measuring For Your Dress

1. Chest/Bust
Measure around the fullest part of the chest/bust.

2. Waist
Measure at the narrowestpoint, generally at belly-button level. Make sure the dancer is relaxed and not pulling in when this measurement is being taken.

3. Back Neck Bone to waist
The most difficult one to get right! Measure from the Knobbly bone at the base of the neck (ie. the point at which the zipper would stop) straight down along the spine to the waist. It is essential that the dancer does not curve forward, as this will give too long a measurement.

4. Shoulder to Cuff
Measure from the edge of the shoulder where the sleeve will meet the armhole, straight down the outer arm to the point on the back of the hand where you would like the sleeve to come. Currently about 1/3 of the way down the back of the hand is considered attractive and practical for a new costume.

5. Finished Skirt Length
An easy one to do but so many get it wrong! If in doubt - err on the short side as hemlines are currently rising. A costume that is too long is both unattractive to look at and a hindrance to the dancer. Measure from the waist to wherever you wish the skirt to come above the knee. Mark this point and then have the dancer point her toe. Now check how far down the same measurement comes. This will be below your first mark. The dress should not shade the dancer's knee when she points. It is important that you are happy with the measurement when the dancer is both standing straight and pointing.

6. Shoulder to shoulder
Take this measurement accross the shoulder blades at four inches down from the back neck bone and across to where you estimate the armhole seams should be.

DOs and DON'Ts

Do: measure over whatever clothing the dancer would normally wear under her costume and ensure the dancer is standing properly when you are measuring her ie. that she is not looking down, slouching etc.
Dont: measure over regular clothing

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Men's gloves of the 19th century: kid, Swedish and chicken skin.: den_miller — LiveJournal no gentleman went outside without gloves, summer or winter.


What's more, the most common glove color these days is black or brown. And in those days, black gloves were most often worn by a gentleman with a mourning suit.

In the 19th century, the men's suit lost all its pretentious decorative effect and became more concise in design and color. And as always happens in such cases, the more modest the style, the higher the quality of the product.

This principle is still promoted today. And then the position of a man in society was betrayed not only by his suit, but also by accessories, including gloves: the way they sit, what leather they are made of, how impeccable they are in cleanliness. Today, we usually evaluate men's shoes according to these criteria.


Men's gloves of the 19th century were sewn from the finest leather - husky and made very narrow. They kept the gloves in special boxes, along with a strap to help them put them on.

The “fingers” of the gloves were straightened with a bracing tool, and then they were carefully put on the hand so as not to tear.

The color was clearly regulated. For evening wear, plain white kid or suede cream gloves with black stripes were worn.

Wearing white gloves was equivalent to the pale white skin of the hands, that is, their owner showed others that he was rich and did not do dirty, hard work.

But colored gloves could be worn during the day.

Further distinctions were made between town and country.
Dark yellow or tan colored gloves were considered appropriate for country dress.

Black, brown, blue, grey, dark green have been considered the most respectable city glove colors since the mid-19th century.

At balls and receptions, women wore white or very light silk or kid gloves, men in civilian clothes wore white or cream kid gloves,

. .. and men in uniform - light (more often - white) suede.

"Rules of social life and etiquette" in 1889 recommended: "Do not take off your gloves during the ball, even if your gloves burst; in view of forethought, going to a ball, it is not a bad idea to put a spare pair of gloves in your pocket. Gloves must be removed at dinner and at cards.” .

The renowned 19th century dandy Count Alfred d'Orsay was also famous for wearing six pairs of gloves a day: first he wore buckskin gloves for the morning outing, then suede gloves for hunting, then kid gloves for the trip to London. There were also kid gloves for afternoon shopping, and yellow kid gloves for a dinner party, and then also kid gloves, but white, embroidered with silk, for an evening ball.

The main materials for the manufacture of gloves were leather of various dressings: husky, suede, Swedish or Danish leather.
““Danish” or “Swedish” gloves differ from others in that they have the outer side of the meat side of the skin, and not the one that faces the wool” , tells us the Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron.

Another dandy, the cleanliness maniac D. Brummell, made sure to come home during the day to completely change his suit and shoes, and always carried spare gloves with him to keep them spotlessly clean and fresh. A speck on gloves was considered blatantly unacceptable. Moreover, Brummell ordered gloves of a special, comfortable cut. They were sewn by three tailors: one - the palm, the other - the thumb, the third - the rest of the fingers. However, this may be a legend composed by him.

The main materials for the manufacture of gloves were leather of various dressings: husky, suede, Swedish or Danish leather.

““Danish” or “Swedish” gloves differ from others in that they have the outer side of the meat side of the skin, and not the one that faces the wool,” tells us the Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron.

An old proverb says: "It takes three kingdoms to make one glove: Spain will provide the husky, France will cut, and England will sew. " The cut was the most important part, because gloves needed exact measurements of the wearer's hand.

Despite the invention of the glove machine in the 19th century, mass production of luxury items was discouraged by many. The glove had to fit the palm perfectly, like a second skin. No wonder there is such an expression: "Sits like a glove", although this has nothing to do with today's wide-legged gloves.

Limerick gloves were very popular in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Although it is believed that they were produced only in County Limerick (Ireland), in fact, they were later made in other cities in Ireland and England.

These gloves were made of leather so thin that a pair was folded and placed inside a walnut shell.

They were also called "chicken gloves" to hide the embarrassing fact that they were actually made from the skins of unborn calves.

There was even a “ring” test: if you could easily slip gloves through a lady's ring, then they were really high quality.


Learn more

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